The Iconic Wickelfisch: How to Swim the Rhine Like a Local

The Rhine River, a majestic waterway winding through Switzerland, Germany, the Netherlands, and France, holds a special place in European culture and history. While many experience the Rhine via river cruises or cycling along its banks, a truly immersive – and surprisingly popular – experience is Wickelfisch swimming. This isn’t about a regulated swimming pool; it’s about joining locals in a time-honored tradition of open-water swimming, aided by a brightly colored, waterproof bag called a Wickelfisch. This article explores the history, practicalities, and etiquette of enjoying the Rhine like a seasoned swimmer.

What is a Wickelfisch?

The name, translating directly to “wrapping fish,” might seem odd, but perfectly describes how this essential swimming companion functions. The Wickelfisch is essentially a large, waterproof bag typically made of a robust, brightly colored PVC material. It originally served as a dry bag for clothing and valuables for workers who swam across the Rhine to reach their jobs on the opposite bank – a common practice, particularly in Basel, Switzerland, well into the 20th century.

The bag isn’t just for keeping belongings dry. Swimmers place their clothes inside the bag, then inflate it slightly, using it as a buoyant aid as they swim across the river. While strong swimmers often navigate the Rhine with minimal assistance, the Wickelfisch offers a safety measure, reduces fatigue, and makes the experience accessible to a wider range of abilities. Today, it’s almost as iconic as the river itself, a proud symbol of Rhine swimming culture.

A History of Rhine Swimming & the Wickelfisch

Swimming the Rhine wasn’t born from recreation; necessity drove the practice. For centuries, villages and cities grew on opposite sides of the river, and workers needed a quick, efficient way to commute. Before bridges were plentiful, a strong swim, aided by a Wickelfisch (‘Wickel’) to carry belongings, was a daily routine for many.

The tradition continues today, largely thanks to the “Wickelfisch-Clubs” found in cities like Basel. These clubs historically represented the workers’ associations and now maintain the tradition and promote safe swimming practices. While the commuting element has largely disappeared, the social aspect thrives. Swimming the Rhine is now a beloved pastime, a social event, and a true expression of local identity. It’s not just a swim; it’s a participation in history.

Practicalities: Where and How to Swim

The most famous location for Wickelfisch swimming is undoubtedly Basel, Switzerland. Here, “Wickeln” (the act of swimming with a Wickelfisch) is a deeply ingrained part of summer life. Designated entry and exit points, known as Badis (lidos), are established along the banks. These Badis typically offer changing rooms, toilets, and sometimes even restaurants.

While Basel is the epicenter, Wickelfisch swimming occurs in other Rhine cities as well. Look for areas frequented by locals – you’ll often spot telltale groups preparing for a swim.

Here’s a breakdown of how a typical swim goes:

  1. Choose a Bade: Select a designated entry/exit point.
  2. Prepare Your Wickelfisch: Pack your clothes and valuables into the bag. Inflate it – not fully, just enough to provide buoyancy.
  3. Enter the Water: Carefully enter the Rhine, often aided by steps or a small platform.
  4. Swim with the Current: The Rhine has a strong current. Swim diagonally across the current, aiming for your chosen exit point downstream. Don’t fight the current directly.
  5. Enjoy the Ride: Relax and enjoy the experience! The Wickelfisch provides support, allowing you to conserve energy.
  6. Exit and Dry Off: Carefully exit the river at your designated Bade and dry off.

Important Considerations:

  • Current: The Rhine’s current is powerful and can change rapidly. Always assess the conditions before entering the water.
  • Water Temperature: The water can be surprisingly cold, even in summer. Be prepared for a chilly swim.
  • Visibility: The Rhine can be murky. Be aware of your surroundings and potential obstacles.
  • Respect Local Rules: Each Bade may have specific rules and regulations. Pay attention and follow them.

Etiquette: Swimming Like a Local

Wickelfisch swimming isn’t just about how to swim, but how to behave. Here are a few unwritten rules to help you blend in:

  • Don’t be Afraid to Ask: Locals are generally happy to help newcomers. Don’t hesitate to ask for advice on currents, entry/exit points, or Wickelfisch technique.
  • Be Prepared: Bring your own Wickelfisch (available for purchase in Basel and online), towel, and appropriate swimwear.
  • Keep it Social: Wickelfisch swimming is often a social activity. Don’t be surprised if you’re joined by others.
  • Respect the River: Don’t litter or damage the environment.
  • Embrace the Cold: Complaining about the temperature is frowned upon. A stoic acceptance of the chill is part of the experience!

FAQ – Your Rhine Swimming Questions Answered

Q: Do I need to be a strong swimmer to use a Wickelfisch?
A: No, but a basic level of swimming ability is required. The Wickelfisch aids buoyancy, but it doesn’t replace swimming skills.

Q: Where can I buy a Wickelfisch?
A: Primarily in Basel, at dedicated shops and some Badis. They’re also available online.

Q: Is it safe to swim in the Rhine?
A: Generally, yes, but always check the current conditions and be aware of potential hazards. Using a Wickelfisch and swimming at designated Badis improves safety.

Q: What should I bring with me?
A: A Wickelfisch, swimwear, a towel, sunscreen, and water shoes are recommended. Bring cash for Bade entry fees (if applicable).

Q: Are there specific times of year when swimming is best?
A: Summer (June-August) is the most popular time, with warmer (relatively speaking!) water temperatures.

Resources

Enjoy your swim! Remember to prioritize safety and embrace the unique cultural experience of swimming the Rhine with a Wickelfisch.

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